When you arrive in Cape Town by water you are treated to the epic sight of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. It is glorious. To my eyes Cape Town itself is a lovely mix of San Francisco, Los Angeles and Seattle. Because just about everyone speaks English it is an easy place to travel, navigate and communicate with local people about their lives. Its ugly history is not too far in the past. Although there are signs that the wounds are not fully healed, there is the sense that there has been a recognised effort by both sides to get there. Perhaps in generations to come it will be similar to reconciliation in places like Japan and Vietnam. We can hope.
There is still the risk of street crime like muggings which had everyone on extra alert, but with some common sense and street smarts we had no such run ins. A student on the trip was not so lucky. What happened is fuzzy, but one theory I have heard is that after a night out drinking on Long Street, an unlicensed taxi driver attempted to make him withdraw hundreds of dollars from an ATM in a hotel lobby. When he refused the driver and two other thugs dragged him outside and beat him badly, breaking his elbow, wrist and eye socket, leaving him unconscious and taking his phone and cash on hand. He needed a surgery and spend a couple days in the hospital, but apparently felt well enough to take the cable car up Table Mountain after that. He remains on the trip. We opted to take Uber everywhere, used no cash to pay drivers and had nothing but great drivers and experiences. Another girl got her phone and wallet stolen as well, but no violence ensued.
What really made Cape Town smooth was the connection with a friend from Seattle’s cousin Carol, her husband Ray and two kids Ollie and Tim. They were so very gracious with their time and information about things to do, where to eat, where to stay, local history and the rest of the things that go along with having a friend in a new city. Thank you Carol and Co.!
We have had limited internet access while sailing between Mauritius and South Africa so booking a place to stay was a bit of a challenge, but we did finally land on a sweet pad in Camps Bay. The place looked out over Camps Bay beach, and off to the left were the “12 Apostles”, a stunning section/feature of Table Mountain. There was body surfing and beach time, explorative bike rides along the water’s edge, and again some time to re-group as a family.
The 12 Apostles
Camps Bay Sunset
On our third day Carol took us Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. Situated at the base of Table Mountain, this massive park is one of the most incredible collection of plants I have ever seen. Meticulously maintained grounds loaded with lovely walks, art, and of course the plants, makes it a place many locals have a yearly pass to go and go weekly to enjoy all that it has to offer. The protea flowers were especially incredible.
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
After a couple hours and some tea at the gardens, we headed to a restaurant in Newlands, an upscale neighbourhood in Cape Town. This, like every meal we ate in South Africa was delicious, fresh and colorful. Near the restaurant was a collection of local artists selling their wares, and I stumbled upon a music shop where the main business appeared to be making marimbas. The place was filled with animal skin drums, and a variety of other dust covered instruments both recognizable and not. I came across a cool kalimba, or what they call a finger piano. They are typically a gourd or in this case a piece of wood, with tuned metal tines attached that are played with the thumbs. Sometimes they have bottle caps loosely attached for a buzzing/rattling sound when played. I asked if it was for sale. “No.” “How about this drum?” I asked. “No.” “Is there anything in here for sale?” “Not really.” Finally after a few more minutes of back and forth he finally went to his cluttered desk and opened the bottom drawer. After some rummaging around he pulled out a plastic bag and revealed a rosewood kalimba that he had made. “This has a pick-up in it. Ostrich bone.” I basically begged him to sell it to me and after some more back and forth he agreed. This is Gavin. He makes incredible handmade instruments.
Gavin from African Ethos
Kalimba
Our next day we drove a couple hours east to a small game reserve in the hopes of seeing some of the “big five”. The beauty of the area surrounding Cape Town is overwhelming. Massive mountains that look like a layered rock version of the Grand Canyon paired with angular mountains jutting out at crazy angles make for a breath taking visual. Plate tectonics at work. As we will do, we ate a great meal at the reserve before heading out in an open Jeep type vehicle to look for some animals. Within the first 4 minutes of entering the park, my phone slipped out of my pocket and right out the back of the vehicle into the dirt. Fortunately no hippos, rhinos or lions were in the vicinity and the guide stopped and retrieved it. It inspired us to come back and go to one of the massive national parks for a multi-day safari in the future. Seeing these animals so close up was so cool.
The next day, our local friends once again graciously offered to guide us up a less traveled route on Table Mountain. We did the Devil’s Peak hike and climbed a cool rock outcropping called Pulpit Rock.
After a brief snack, we went over the saddle and headed down through the Newland Ravine to the base. It was a beautiful way to see the area and appreciate its natural beauty. I only fell twice. We were all a bit sore the next day, so I guess I am not doing enough stairs!
Also, adding to the list of epic places to have a catch, we played at the top of our hike. I am still enjoying this as a mission in each place we visit. We finished our hike with another great meal and of course some coffee. Side note: South Africa has great coffee and we loaded up and have been enjoying it since departing to Ghana.
G & M TM CT, SA
Our last day we visited Robben Island. This is where mostly political and some criminal prisoners were imprisoned during apartheid, including Nelson Mandela. Our guide Tom was a prisoner alongside Mandela, and shared stories about the time there. He made of point of noting Nelson’s importance, but reminded us that there were many men kept there for the same reasons and that they too suffered alongside him. He told a story of lost opportunity. He holds the record of 8.9 seconds for the 100 meter, and if my memory serves me correctly that is faster than both Carl Lewis and Usain Bolt. The place has a dark history and it was pretty intense to hear it from a guy who lived through it.
Tom, Robben Island, SA.
From Robben Island we traveled to the Langa Township. In many ways it looked like some of the rougher neighbourhoods in east Los Angeles, but with the deep sense of the country’s recent history and the have and have nots. Our host Sheila made what was unquestionably one of the best meals I have had on the trip thus far. Antelope, ostrich, beef, chicken, 8 great salads, creamed corn, beets, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, and on and on. I wish I had 4 stomachs and a couple doggie bags to take some for the road. The meal was accompanied by a marimba band that played mostly traditional african music but stepped into some odd choices like Guantanamera, Three Little Birds by Bob Marley and maybe even La Bamba. Why do they do that??? I have already heard La Bamba.
The Band
Atticus disappeared and was found hanging out with host Sheila’s ten year old son, maybe grandson. They traded songs, talked about shoes and ate lunch and ice cream for dessert. Kids. Pretty much the same everywhere, but the playing field is not level. Our privilege was obvious and the moment was not lost on the kids. I think after visiting so many different places and seeing the opportunities we have for no reason other than this was what was laid out by our colonising European ancestors long ago, it is sinking in, just how good we have it. Our first world problems are really seeming trivial.
We also visited the colourful Bo-Kaap section of town. It is primarily a Muslim/Malay neighbourhood with buildings painted vivid pinks, blues and other pastel colours as a joyful symbol of this new freedom and opportunity for individualism post apartheid. There was a wedding happening while we were there. What a fantastic scene!
Again, our time in South Africa was just too short, and it is a place I would like to return to and continue to explore. Add that to India, Myanmar, etc.
On to Ghana.